beistelltisch wohnzimmer rustikal
now for something that is not for softies. we are going to build a small occasional table made of beech. you can have these kinds of boards cut to size at the diy store. for this we will need the wood, a jigsaw... ...and this tool: a router. you can use many different profiles down here. first of all, we have to draw a circle on our board. we will use this circle cutting guide to do this. important: we will lay the board with the visible side face down...
...and draw the circle on the back. if you do not have a circle cutting guide... ...simply use a nail, a string and a pencil. put the nail in the centre of the board and then draw the circle. once the circle is finished, we will move on to the cutting out. our jigsaw has an sds fitting. all we have to do is insert the saw blade into the fitting,... ...which snaps shut and we can get started. if you do not have any screw clamps with plastic caps,...
...use small pieces of wood. this keeps your surface nice and smooth. when saw blade is inserted, the plug is, of course, not... ...in the socket. let's get started! tim has now nearly finished sawing the circle. we reclamped the board a few times in the process. the cut-out tabletop now has to be made perfectly round. to do this, we will use the router,... ...which is clamped in a circle cutting guide.
and now we can cut off the last few millimetres around the circumference. don't forget the protective goggles. we will rout the board several times in 4-mm layers. when finished, we will have a wonderfully smooth surface. as a finishing touch, we will now rout a chamfer on the bottom of the table. we will use this small cutter head to do this. the tabletop is finished. what is missing, tim? - the legs! we have transferred the dimensions for the table legs from the assembly instructions onto the board...
...and cut them out using the jigsaw. this is what the final result looks like: this is what the dimensions transferred onto the wooden board look like: - and what are those holes for? good question! we have drilled the large holes with a 20-mm forstner drill bit... ...the small holes with an 8-mm wood drill bit. important: always drill directly on the line. then we will not have to cut out these small angles later. so now we have our table legs. - but they are different. that's wrong!
no, no. one of each hole at the bottom and one at the top makes... our table frame. you should normally use glue. but we are only going to plug the two parts into each other. we will centre the frame on the bottom... ...and trace the contours. we have drilled holes through the tabletop into the cross with the 5-mm drill bit. but make sure that you do not drill into your work surface. then we will turn the whole thing round... ...and screw the tabletop to the frame.
we have thought up another thing for you. namely a wooden ring, which we will fit to the tabletop. this will later stop anything from slipping off the table. we have cut out the ring using the router. here again in several steps. we have fixed the ring to make sure that nothing slips during routing. now we will join the tabletop and the ring. to do this, we have drilled six holes – at a distance of 2 centimetres from the edge. if you do not have an assistant...
...fix the ring with screw clamps... ...and screw it to the tabletop. finally, we will show you how to work the surface. to do this, we will wipe the surface thoroughly with a damp cloth. when it is dry, the fibres will protrude. then we will sand the surface with a grit of 240. we have already prepared the back... ...and will now sand down the fibres generously. when everything is free of dust and fluff...
...we will treat the surface with wax. we will apply the wax evenly to the surface. we will remove surplus wax with a cotton cloth. very important: observe the drying times defined by the ma